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I had the same problem, I just shaved some rubber off the o-ring until the collar adjusted smoothly.

  
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Subject: Truggy Droop
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rcgeezerUser is Offline
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10/28/2008 10:19 AM  

What's a common front & rear droop setting for your truggy?  I assume you measure droop with the shock attached to the A arm?  What effect does adjusting the droop have on the truggy?  Looking forward to all of your comments, thanks!

kailUser is Offline
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10/30/2008 10:02 PM  

I  won't get into a common setting for Droop (Rebound-Stop/Bump-Stop) considering all the different vehicles on the market, and their setup differently in all types of ways.

Measurement of droop, there are probably numerous ways to measure droop, that in some ways can probably get very technical.  The best and easiest way I think to measure droop is measure the distance from the middle of the shock screws.  Look at the picture provided below.

Basically, droop effects the transfer of weight from front to rear and vice versa. 

For example, if you think you need more steering, add some droop to the rear which will load more weight to the front giving the rear less traction. Assuming you have little or no droop in the front.

If you need the vehicle to gain a little more traction in the rear, take some droop out of the rear (More Suspension (Susp) Travel).  If there is no droop at all and you need more traction in the rear you'll have to look for another setting to change.

I know this may be a little awkard at first trying to understand the droop setting, when I get a little more data, maybe I can explain it a little better.

----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Add Droop = Screw Droop screw into chassis = less susp travel
Subtract droop = Screw Droop screw away from chassis = more susp travel
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Adjustments are made in small increments, I would  recommend 1 hour or 1/8'' adjustments as a starting point.  I would like to give you a starting point, but it's up to you to find the right setting per the track conditions that best suit your driving.

Things to remember when your setting droop;

1. What you affect while setting droop may have an adverse effect to another part of the car.
2. Adding a lot of droop (Less Travel) may not be very good for rough track conditions, it also may make the car feel sketchy landing large jumps.
3. Droop is a consistently changing variable since the droop screw will etch into the chassis changing the measurement always, so be on top of your adjustments over use.

I would like to elaborate a little more on this but I'll keep it short for now, I'll probably come back to this to update.

 






rcgeezerUser is Offline
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10/31/2008 7:36 AM  
Thanks for the info Joel! I understand the concept, but still have one question. If you are measuring the distance between shock screws, then won't the spring pre-load screw position directly effect the droop? If this is the case, then I'm guessing you need to take your droop measurement with the pre-load screw all the way to the top as it looks in your picture? Then after all this is done you'd set the pre-load to adjust your ride height, correct?
kailUser is Offline
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10/31/2008 8:00 AM  
Spring Pre-Load Screw?, do you mean the adjusting collar?

No, it has no direct effect for the length of the shock, adjusting the collar to add pre-load or take away pre-load won't make the shock taller or shorter. And when you adjust the droop screw, it limits the amount of physical travel in the a-arm.

Yes, the pre-load setting does effect ride-height, but so does a few other settings.
rcgeezerUser is Offline
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10/31/2008 9:45 AM  
Yes, I was referring to the adjusting collar. Got it now! I was thinking that the further down the shock body you turned the collar the more you would force the spring down as it compressed, but now that I think about it the unsprung spring tension is already forcing the shock shaft all the way out already so it really has nowhere to go but up which is what you are controlling by setting the droop and limiting the total shock travel thus limiting the arm travel as well. It actually makes sense now, and from what I've read about 120mm-125mm is about right for the rebound measurement on a truggy. Thanks again Joel!
kailUser is Offline
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10/31/2008 4:14 PM  
Cool, When I ran the losi 8ight truggy, I was 95mm in front and 100mm in rear to start with, this was going off one of Drake's Setup sheets.
rcgeezerUser is Offline
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11/05/2008 1:16 PM  
Thanks Joel! One final question...since I'm combining a different manufacturer's shock package to my ST-RR would the suggested rebound settings from a Pro driver's setup sheet be accurate for this vehice, or would they better be determined by the type of shock being used? I'm guessing the vehicle takes precedence as the important factor is amount of suspension travel in total both front and rear? Thanks again for the education, and I'll be going to the track soon to experiment with some different settings as you've recommended!
kailUser is Offline
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11/05/2008 10:12 PM  

Try not to over think setup, there really is no accuracy to account for when applying another persons setup information to your driving style.  Yes, it may give you an indication where to start, but in the end it's all up to you what you understand and how you apply your knowledge to the conditions at hand. 

No matter what kind of vehicle you run and what type of parts are installed, the car will still act as one unit, and once you understand that and can truly feel what the car is doing, then you will really see how your changes affect the characteristics of the vehicle.  The best thing you can do right now is drive, it doesn't matter if the car is a little ill handling, adapt to it, and if you can make many laps without crashing over a long period of time, then you'll start feeling what the car does through the inputs you give through the controller.

It took me about 2 years and thousands of hours of practice to find a comfortable setup to start with, and I can forsee a thousand more hours of wheel time to find that area I think I'm looking for.  Have fun.

Hope that helps,

Joel

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